Established in the heart of the Champagne wine-growing area, Philiponnat possesses a unique heritage. It’s magnificent, historic 18th century cellars were part of the Château de Mareuil. Philiponnat has owned an exceptional walled vineyard, unparalleled in the Champagne wine-growing area, for nearly a century: Clos des Goisses. The name of this 5.5 hectare plot with a 45 degree incline reflects its nature: in the old Champagne dialect Gois or Goisses means a very steep slope. It is also the region’s warmest terroir: facing due south, this pure chalk slope receives no shade from sunrise to sunset.
The 2009 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses Juste Rosé is showing brilliantly, unfurling in the glass with scents of white cherries, pear, fresh bread, orange oil, papaya and bee pollen. Medium to full-bodied, deep and tightly wound, it’s concentrated and incisive, with racy acids, superb mid-palate volume and an elegant pinpoint mousse. It concludes with a bright, penetrating finish. This has everything it needs to age very gracefully indeed. Disgorged in March 2020 with 4.5 grams per liter dosage, it’s a blend of 64% Pinot Noir with Chardonnay. [96+ Points, William Kelley – March 2021, robertparker.com]