Domaine des Comtes Lafon has the deepest and coldest cellars in Burgundy and they nurture some of the greatest dry white wines of Burgundy. Dominique Lafon is the leading producer in Meursault. The white wines are whole bunch pressed then settled in tank at 12°C for 24 hours. The wines spend a second winter in wood. The red grapes are 100% destemmed and put in stainless steel tank with a cooling and heating system. Temperature reduced to 14° for a three to five day pre-fermentation maceration. The vats are typically punched down twice a day during fermentation. Post-fermentation maceration depends on the tannins, while sometimes the juice is pressed and run off into barrel to finish fermenting there. 30% new oak is used. Maturation takes place over 18 months with two rackings before bottling without fining or filtration if possible.
The 2016 Viré-Clessé wafts from the glass with notes of musky peach and dried white flowers, framed by sublet reduction. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, tense and racy, with good depth at the core and an attractive sense of completeness. It will need some time in the cellar to unwind after bottling, but it’s an elegant, vibrant interpretation of the appellation that ranks as one of Lafon’s best cuvées this year. [90 Points, William Kelley – August 2018, robertparker.com]