Pian dell’Orino is one of the names of excellence of Brunello di Montalcino: a small winery that has achieved record ratings in recent years both in Italy and abroad. It was founded in 1997 by Caroline Pobitzer from South Tyrol together with her German husband Jan Herback, a long-time winemaker and winemaker, united by a common passion for the Montalcino terroir and for great wines.
In the vineyard all synthetic chemicals are banned in favor of biodynamic preparations, manure and green manures, in the cellar the fermentations take place in steel or in conical wooden vats, without temperature control and with long maceration. In continuity with traditional best practices, only native yeasts are used and refinements involve the use of large barrels.
Pian dell’Orino wines represent high and dizzying expressions of Montalcino: from intense and juicy red to Brunello of great depth, with a classic and austere character, fruity and expressive. These are wines of great complexity and elegance, produced with great wisdom following traditional and genuine methods: the result of vineyards with attention to every detail.
Here’s a bit of breaking news. When I went to the winery to taste this wine, it was geared up to be classified as a Brunello di Montalcino. The idea was to use the best fruit that could be obtained from the Bassolino vineyard in this difficult vintage. Only 3,000 bottles plus a few magnums were made. Just hours after my tasting, I got an email from proprietor Caroline Pobitzer saying that the Brunello I had tasted, would in fact be declassified as Rosso. In effect, the 2014 Rosso di Montalcino Bassolino has the DNA and the pedigree of a Brunello, but the qualities of the vintage make the wine lean on impact and ephemeral in terms of its bouquet. It’s all about grace and poise without that distinctive brawn you get in Brunello. But if your palate veers toward the light, elegant and fragile side of the Sangiovese spectrum, you should scoop up as many bottles as possible because this wine speaks directly to those tastes. The wine is beautifully balanced and carefully acidic in all the right spots.[94 Points, Monica Larner – July 2019, robertparker.com]