Clos Mogador is the winery of René Barbier, one of the names with the most weight in this region. Descending from a wine family arriving in the Priorat in the 1980’s, producing one of the most prestigious wines in the whole appellation. This wine is now internationally famous: Clos Mogador.
The white from Clos Mogador has changed over the years, and the 2019 Nelin is a Garnacha Blanca-based blend that fermented with indigenous yeasts (and in 2019, there is still a very small portion of French grapes) and had some skin contact in a very slow fermentation and a long aging where they use all different materials—oak, concrete, clay and stainless steel. They are now introducing some local varieties like Trepat Blanc and Cartoixá (the local name of Xarello), and they are slowly removing the French grape varieties. They only used oval 1,200-liter oak foudres—there are no more barrels—and continued the aging in stainless steel for a further eight months. The nose is phenomenal, with pure Mediterranean aromas of herbs, dry yellow flowers and pollen. This is showing imminent complexity and has a seamless palate that is round and balanced, with 14% alcohol (not a shy wine) but with incredible freshness. 2019, as in the rest of the range here, is a very balanced vintage with power, freshness and elegance. This is superb. 7,500 bottles produced. They will grow this wine in 2021 onward with new plantings at higher altitude. [96+ Points, Luis Gutierrez – September 2022, robertparker.com]