Boris Champy is one of the newest and most exciting names in Burgundy. His wines are poised, elegant and beautifully nuanced. After an exciting career which took him from his birthplace of Champagne, to the iconic Dominus in California’s Napa Valley, and back again to Burgundy’s Domaine des Lambrays, he was lucky enough to take over the pristine vineyards of Didier Montchovet. Didier had meticulously tended his vines in the small village of Nantoux in the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune – just behind Pommard – for over 40 years.
He was one of the first to farm biodynamically, long before the trend for biodynamics began, and the quality potential here is huge. High density plantings, unusual for the Hautes-Côtes, and high elevations play a crucial role in the success of the vines and Boris is quick to credit this on his labels, with the altitude or aspect of each vineyard marked to celebrate the subtle character of each site. His attention to detail does not stop in the vineyard. Everything Boris does is with sustainable measures in mind – he uses lighter bottles, recycled packaging and natural corks – with the goal of eventually being entirely energy self-sufficient.
Offering up aromas of flowers, orange zest, pear and buttery pastry, the 2021 Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Blanc Elévation 382 Montagne is medium to full-bodied, satiny and racy, with attractive purity and precision, concluding with a mineral finish.
[91 points – William Kelley- Oct 2023 – robertparker.com ]